Collagen in cosmetics - anti-aging miracle?

What is collagen?

Collagen is a protein that only occurs in multicellular organisms. It is a structural protein that acts as a scaffold for inelastic fibers such as tendons, ligaments, bones, cartilage, and subcutaneous tissue layers, which are largely composed of a mixture of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. It accounts for around 30% of all proteins in the human body[1].

How is collagen formed?

Collagen is a so-called triple helix protein, i. That three separate strands of pro-collagens (collagen precursors) come together to form a structure. It is stored in the reticulum, a branched system of channels and cavities for calcium and carbohydrate storage, by enzymes, with the help of ribosomes (complex macromolecules of RNA). Here, first amino acids such as lysine, glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, and some more bound to chains, with the help of coenzymes and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). The resulting single strands of pro-collagene are bound by enzymes with hydrogen and disulfide bridges in their triple helical structure [2].

What are the properties of collagen?

Collagen makes up the majority of the lower skin layer with elastin and hyaluronic acid, and gives structure and strength to bones, cartilage, tendons and ligaments. In the single strands, every third amino acid is glycine, and the three strands are held together by lysine and proline side chains. It has a mass of between 115 and 235 kilodaltons (115-235 kg / kmol), making it a rather large macromolecule. A lack of collagen or elastin causes wrinkles. It also plays a crucial role in biomineralization, involving the process of minerals and trace elements in biomolecules (e.g., calcium and phosphorus in bone and teeth)[3].

How do you get collagen?

Collagen is found in the lower skin layers of farm animals such as pigs and cows, resulting in collagen from cowhides (leather) and pork rinds. Here to 70% from pigskin. There are no non-animal ways to obtain collagen, since neither fungi nor plants nor unicellular organisms are able to produce it [4].

What are the benefits of collagen?

Collagen is a protein and can thereby be denatured, this denatured form is called gelatin. This gelatin is e.g. in food technology as a gelling agent and in pharmacy with as a container in the form of hard and soft capsules. Collagen is used in cosmetics and pharmacy as an anti-aging product, thereby filling the gaps in the tissue causing wrinkles. There are cosmetic products such as creams containing collagen, and concentrates of collagen in the pharmaceutical industry[5].

Is collagen such a miracle cure as it is touted?

There is no doubt that collagen helps to fill the lower layers of the skin and fight against wrinkles, even proven medically. However, this applies only to ingestible concentrates, which are taken orally or intravenously [6], dermal application is the problem of large macromolecules again. Such large molecules can not be absorbed by the skin, thereby reducing or even nullifying their actual effect [7].

Sources:

Wikipedia[5][6][7]

Scientific Article on Collagen[1][2][3]

Articles for the production and use of gelatine [4][5]

Hyaluronic Acid in Cosmetics - How Good Does It Really Help?

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a macromolecule, such molecules consisting of several smaller, repeating, parts that consists of disaccharides. It occurs naturally in the human body, as synovial fluid, and important part of connective tissue, cell proliferation (cell growth), cell migration (cell site change), and metastasis (secretion of negative cells, among others, cancer cells). We mainly use the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid[1].

Fig. 1 A monomer, hyaluronan

What are its properties?

Hyaluronic acid is very resistant to mechanical pressure, which is why it does not simply escape from the joint as a gelling liquid. It changes its viscosity proportionally to the pressure of it on it

acts, with a higher pressure means a lower viscosity. It also "sticks" to the joints and is thus additionally protected against leakage from the joint. Hyaluronic acid has a very high water binding capacity, it can bind up to 6 liters of water per gram of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid can vary greatly in molecular mass, which makes it possible to produce a wide variety of preparations[2].

What is hyaluronic acid used for?

Hyaluronic acid is used as a moisturizer in cosmetics, is a component of eye drops and is used for joint abrasion as a lubricant [3]. It is also an alternative to silicones and plastics in aesthetic medicine, e.g. Modeling and "splashing" lips, calves, facial contours or buttocks. Such hyaluronic acid modeling will last between 6 months and 3 years, depending on the type of treatment and location [4].

Is hyaluronic acid really such a miracle cure?

In theory, hyaluronic acid is a universally applicable agent, with virtually no disadvantages and actually only benefits. For the cosmetic application, however, it is sold as better than it really is. The reason for this is its molecular size. Because hyaluronic acid is a macromolecule, it has an enormous size, weighing between 6000-9000 (6000-9000 kg / kmol) kilodaltons in animal products. Because of this, the molecules are too large to penetrate the skin, leaving most of the effect only on the outermost skin layers and not entering deeper layers. Frequently, the breakdown products of hyaluronic acid are also used, since they have a much lower mass of 50-130 (50 kg / kmol) kilodaltons, but even here only a few of the fragments penetrate deeply enough into the skin [5]. Thus, cosmetics containing hyaluronic acid are only a fraction as good as they are marketed. However, it is not useless as it still provides the uppermost skin layers with water, forming a thin film that protects the lower layers of the skin [6].

Sources:

Wikipedia[1][5][6]

Article on hyaluronic acid and its medicinal benefits[2][3]

Scientific Article on Hyaluronic Acid in Aesthetic Medicine[4]

Vegetable oils and fats in cosmetics - how healthy are they?

What are vegetable oils and fats?

Vegetable oils and fats consist of fatty acid esters, so-called triglycerides, as well as secondary substances such as riboflavin (vitamin B2), folic acid (vitamin B9), tocopherol (vitamin E), squalane, terpenes, minerals such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron and zinc [1] , as well as essential amino acids such as tyrosine, phenylalanine, leucine and lysine. Whether and how much of these substances are present varies from plant to plant.

What are triglycerides?

Fig.1 Triglyceride, with unsaturated fatty acids (red), saturated fatty acids (blue), and glycerin (black)

riglycerides are so-called esters of fatty acids and glycerin. They are formed by dehydration of molecules and are characterized by the fact that they bind two molecules via an oxygen. These bonds can be cleaved by acidic addition of water or by saponification to produce either the fatty acids or their fatty acid salts [2]. Triglycerides with multiple (polyunsaturated) fatty acids are more fluid, while triglycerides with low to no unsaturated fatty acids are more likely to be solid.

What are fatty acids?

Abb. 2 Lachs hat einen der größten Gehälter an Omega-3-Fettsäuren aller Nahrungsmittel

Fettsäuren sind lange Kohlenwasserstoffketten, welche mindestens eine Carbonsäuregruppe besitzen. Sie sind alle schwache Säuren und keinerlei vergleichbar mit der Säurewirkung von z.B. Salzsäure. Es gibt sehr viele, mal mehr, mal wenig unterschiedlich. Generell kann man unter „gesättigten“ und „ungesättigten“ Fettsäuren unterscheiden, hierbei stehen die Bezeichnungen für Doppelbindungen im Molekül. Fettsäuren ohne Doppelbindungen bezeichnet man als „gesättigt“, Fettsäuren mit Doppelbindungen als „ungesättigt“.

Fatty acids which are polyunsaturated are rather fluid, saturated fatty acids are rather solid [3]. The most common or most found in cosmetics fatty acids are stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, erucic acid, linoleic acid, arachidic acid and caproic acid [4]. Also, there are fatty acids that the body can not produce itself, yet needs such. the omega-3 fatty acid. It is one of the essential fatty acids of the body that he does not make himself, but on the food intake. They are called omega-3 fatty acids because the last double bond of the polyunsaturated fatty acid, from the carboxylic acid, is 3 carbon behind the last carbon single bond (CC) (This is called omega, since the single bond, as the omega sign in the Greek alphabet last). One such herbal omega-3 fatty acid is alpha-linolenic acid. Omega-3 fatty acids are metabolized for energy, and are used to produce so-called Series 3 prostaglandins, which are responsible for anti-inflammatory. Their metabolites are also needed to regulate blood pressure, control blood clotting and the immune system, and maintain a balanced heart rate [19].

What are the secondary substances in oils and fats?

Secondary substances in vegetable oils and fats include vitamins and minerals, e.g.

-Tocopherol, the vitamin E, which has the task in the body to protect against oxidative stress[5],

-Riboflavin, vitamin B2, which is used in metabolism as a starting material for the production of antioxidant coenzymes[6],

-Squalan, a terpene that softens and smoothes the skin[7].

Minerals are e.g. 

- Potassium, which is important for the skin, kidneys, nerves and brain[8],

- Calcium, which is important for blood, teeth and bones[9],

- Magnesium, which is important for the arteries, heart and muscle[10],

- Phosphorus, which is important for teeth, bones and the brain[11],

- Iron, which is important for the blood, nails and skin[12],

- Zinc, which is a component of many enzymes, and is essential for the metabolism of sugar fat and protein[13]

What are the properties of vegetable oils and fats?

Abb. 3 Aus Kokosnüssen wird das vielseitige Kokosöl gewonnen

The triglycerides are split on the skin, releasing the fatty acids and glycerin. Many fatty acids have anti-inflammatory and protective effects against oxidative stress. In combination, they can firm the skin, strengthen the tissue, strengthen the barrier functions of the skin, protect against water loss, as well as pigmentation spots, counteract both overpigmentation and underpigmentation, and loosen cornification of the skin. They can make the hair softer and smoother and contribute to a naturally beautiful shine, and make the hair healthier overall[14].

Which oils and fats are used in cosmetics?

Frequently used oils are e.g. Jojoba, sesame, argan, avocado, almond, and apricot kernel oils, less exotic, yet often-used oils are e.g. Olive oil and rapeseed oil [15], however, these are just a few of many different oils used. Besides oils, fats and butters are also popular, e.g. Cocoa and shea butter, or coconut oil or coconut oil [16]. They all have different properties, and in the right proportions, they make cosmetics with extraordinary effects.

How are vegetable oils and fats extracted or produced?

Pflanzenöle können auf mehrere weisen gewonnen werden, so z.B. durch das Pressen von Biomasse entweder heiß oder kalt, oder durch Extraktion mit Lösemitteln. Diese Gewinnung und die darauf folgenden Aufbereitungsverfahren bestimmen die Bezeichnung und Inhaltsstoffe der Pflanzenöle. So ist ein Öl welches kaltgepresst (unter 60°C), und nicht raffiniert wurde „unraffiniert“, „kaltgepresst“ und „nativ“, wobei nativ für ein naturbelassenes Öl steht, welches noch so gut wie alle Wirkstoffe besitzt. Ein raffiniertes Öl hat im Gegensatz so gut wie gar keine Sekundärstoffe mehr. Raffinierte Öle sind weitestgehend geruchs-, und geschmackslos, jedoch sehr lange haltbar und universal einsetzbar. Unraffinierte Öle sind dahingegen weniger lange haltbar, haben jedoch ihren typischen, Geruch und Geschmack, sowie den Großteil der Sekundärstoffe behalten. Sie werden jedoch, um die Haltbarkeit zu verlängern gedämpft, wodurch ein Teil der Sekundärstoffe verloren geht. Native Öle sind kaltgepresste Öle, welche im Gewinnungsprozess keinem weiterem Schritt zur Verbesserung der Haltbarkeit durchlaufen. Sie haben noch alle Sekundärstoffe, sind dafür jedoch weniger lange haltbar[17].

Are cosmetics with vegetable oils and fats, better than those without?

Die Frage nach dem „Was ist denn jetzt besser?“ ist zu generell gefragt, schlussendlich kommt es auf jeden selbst an ob oder ob nicht. Fakt ist, dass Kosmetika mit Pflanzenölen, anstelle von Mineralölen, verträglicher und um einiges umweltschonender sind. Aus bestimmten Mischungen von Pflanzenölen kann man selbst auf hoch empfindliche Haut optimal eingehen, eine Flexibilität, welche Mineralölkosmetik nicht besitzt[18]. Möchte man sich selbst, und seiner Umwelt, etwas gutes tun, sind Pflanzenöle eine sehr gute Alternative zu Mineralölen.

Sources:

Wikipedia[1][7][17]

List of the most important trace elements and their uses[8][9][10][11][12][13]

Article on the effects of jojoba oil[15]

Article on the effects of almond oil[15]

Article on the effects of coconut oil [16]

Contribution to the effects of vegetable oils on the skin and hair[14][18]

List of the most important vitamins and their benefits[5][6]

Contribution to the chemistry of triglycerides[2]

Scientific article on fatty acids[3][4]

Scientific article on omega-3 fatty acids[19]

Petroleum in cosmetics - What are paraffins and are they harmful?

  What are paraffins?

Paraffins are descendants of the crude oil refinery, more precisely the remains of the distillate. You will find applications in all kinds of disciplines. They can be low or high in viscous liquids, such as solids.

What are paraffins in chemistry?

Hexane molecule (black = carbon, white = hydrogen) Fig. 1

Paraffins are mixtures of acyclic (non-cyclic or aromatic) hydrocarbons having the general formula CnH2n + 2. They can be branched chains or unbranched chains, giving them different properties. The C-C and C-H compounds are relatively strong and are protected by most bases and acids, hence the name paraffin, parum affinis (lat.) = Less reactive. Only halogens, e.g. Chlorine just react with them. [1]

What are their properties?

Dodadecane (C-12) molecule Fig. 2

They are cheap because they are made from petroleum waste. They are chemically quite resistant, and non-toxic, which is why they are used in cosmetics as a base for creams, ointments and others, as well as in medicine as absorption inhibitors. They are well flammable, and will therefore be operated in candles, as well as in grill lighters and hybrid rockets with partly solid and partly gaseous fuels [2]. In addition, they are considered to be relatively biodegradable [3].

What is the problem with paraffins in cosmetics?

It is feared that paraffins from a content of 10% contributes to dehydration of the skin and damage the acid mantle. They are said to prevent the skin from performing its own protective functions that promote wrinkles and impede cell metabolism [4]. However, there is no clear evidence for any of these points, which leaves the negative properties of paraffins controversial. Dermatologists tend to be less likely to face problems with the skin due to paraffins [5].

Are there any alternatives, even if paraffins are considered safe?

Yes there is. There are plenty of alternatives in nature, with no negative but many positive qualities. For example, the avocado oil, or the jojoba oil. In addition to their similar properties, they also contain fatty acids, vitamins and minerals, which additionally do the skin good [6]. They moisturize and contribute to a healthy complexion.

Sources to read:

Stiftung Warentest about paraffin in cosmetics [5]

Degradability of paraffin by bacteria [3]

Scientific article on Paraffin [1][2]

Properties and general information about Jojoba Oil [6]

Beauty Articles on Paraffins in Cosmetics [4]

Image sources: Wikimedia Commons, Flickr. All image rights go to the owners of the images.

Fragrances in cosmetics - how harmful are they?

What are fragrances?

Fragrances are those chemicals that have certain odors, and smell different in different compositions. They are all allergens and irritate the skin. As "perfume", "fragrance", "aroma" and "flavor" these substances are usually called, and we know up to 3000 individual substances, which fall under the category fragrances. They are used in perfumes, scented trees, scented candles and cosmetics. When they spring from nature they are called essential oils.

What are fragrances chemically accurate?

Menthol molecule Fig. 1

Fragrances, or fragrances, are molecules that stimulate different receptors in our nose and therefore smell very differently. They all have molar masses below 300 g / mol, and always consist of a polar, e.g. a hydroxy group, and a non-polar part, e.g. a hydrocarbon chain. Because they are nasally inhaled by us, they are easily volatile, i. E. They evaporate under normal circumstances in part [1]. When we inhale these substances, so-called transmembrane proteins provide, which are responsible for signal transmission under. The smell of a substance depends on which of these proteins stimulates it in combination with each other [2].

Why are they used in cosmetics? 

Fragrances are included in many cosmetics to cover unpleasant odors, or to give a thready product a certain something. In natural cosmetics, they are occasionally included as incidental content or supplement of natural fats and oils. [3]

Vanilla planifolia, seasoning vanilla Fig. 2

What are their good, what are their bad qualities?

As the name suggests, fragrances have a certain scent, or a certain odor. For example, Benzaldehyde bitter almond, vanillin vanilla, lemon citrus and menthol mint / menthol. They usually have a good perceptible odor even at minimal concentrations [4]. Some of them occur naturally, as so-called essential oils, and some of them are synthetically produced [5]. They are all irritating and irritating, and can cause allergies with more pronounced symptoms of irritation, redness, irritation and itching. How strong these symptoms are or whether they occur at all depends on the concentration in the product, and the dispositions of the user. Some people are highly resistant to perfumes and have no symptoms. Some have minimal allergic reactions such as redness or itching. And others are very sensitive about fragrances, they react with severe irritation and irritation, as well as with red, sore spots [6]. Also, they can photosensitize the skin, i. The skin becomes more susceptible to light, which can cause pigmentation disorders [7].

How can you recognize fragrances in cosmetics?

Fragrances have as subcategory the allergens. These are 26 substances that have been subjected to extensive testing and have been confirmed to cause allergies, irritation and irritation. They must be noted from a content of 0.001% for leave-on products, and at 0.01% for rinse-off products. Below these limits no noticeable reaction can be assumed[8].

Are there alternatives ?

No, fragrances have no alternatives, whether in the normal or in natural cosmetics. No known substance replaces the function of these substances without causing many worse side effects. However, it should be said that many people tolerate fragrance as well as problem-free, and have never had any problems with it [9]. For people with allergies, it is important to look at the contents and selectively use products without the problematic allergens, or to leave products with fragrances altogether. It should be said that "perfume free" is not always perfume free. Thus, some fragrances that fulfill a further purpose besides the odor do not qualify as a perfume [10].[9]. Für Menschen mit Allergien heißt es auf die Inhalte schauen und selektiv Produkte ohne die problematischen Allergene nutzen, oder Produkte mit Duftstoffen gleich ganz weg lassen. Hierzu sei gesagt, dass „parfümfrei“ nicht immer Parfüm frei ist. So sind manche Duftstoffe, welche einen weiteren Zweck neben der Geruchsgebung erfüllen nicht als Parfüm einzustufen[10].

Sources to read:

BfR Statement on Fragrances in Cosmetics [8]

Stiftung Warentest Report on fragrance in cosmetics [9][10]

Focus Article on perfumes in cosmetics [6][9]

Scientific article on membrane proteins [2]

Wikipedia [1][3][4][5][7]

 

Polyethylene glycols in cosmetics - how harmful is PEG?

Was sind Polyethylenglykole ?

Polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) are plastics, so-called polymers, which are used in many areas. They consist of long ether chains and have many useful properties.

How are they set up?

Liquid PEG 400 Fig. 1

PEG is formed when polymerizing ethylene oxide, a highly toxic gas, by alkaline or acid catalysis. PEG has different chain lengths which give it different properties.

Thus, e.g. Chain lengths of:

  • 200-400 g / mol liquid

  • 600 g / mol pasty

  • And from 3000 g / mol solid

At chain lengths between 200 and 35,000 g / mol, they are called polyethylene glycols, from a chain length of 35,000 g / mol they are called polyethylene oxides, since the -OH groups can be neglected at the beginning and end of the polymer.[1]

Where is PEG used?

PEG is used in medicine, as a carrier for tablets, tropics and dragees, as well as a laxative and antidote for hydrofluoric acid and nitrogen triflouride poisoning [2]. It is also used as a preservative for fossils to protect them from environmental influences [3], and as lubricants and release agents in industry [4]. It is used as a softener and base for ointments. It is found in cosmetics in creams, lotion, perfumes, deodorants, lipsticks, toothpastes, hair care products and bath products [5]. In addition, it is used for quick drying of precious woods.

Why is PEG used so often?

PEG is very soluble in water, up to PEG 35.000, which can still be mixed with 50% water, because of that it is a good drying agent, but also humectant, as well as a good emulsifier [6]. It also has a very low toxicity, which is why it can easily meet its medical applications [7]. It is biodegradable up to a molecular mass of 1500. From a temperature of 150 ° C it decomposes [8].

What is the problem with PEG in cosmetics?

PEG makes the skin more permeable, for ingredients of cosmetics, but also for possible toxins. We have to deal with toxins day after day, even if we do not notice it. Our body protects us from bacteria, viruses but also toxins, and our skin accomplishes this task by not letting any unwanted substances enter our bodies. Foreign substances, which our body recognizes as a danger, are prevented from entering the body via antibodies. For this purpose, the body expands the blood vessels of the corresponding skin site, increases the blood flow and sends messenger substances and enzymes to the affected area. This manifests itself as irritation or redness [9]. PEG weakens the natural barrier of the skin, which makes these defenses appear, but many times less effective. [10] Our body also struggles against so-called oxidative stress and ionizing radiation every day. In our atmosphere are free oxygen radicals (O-) and short-wave, high-energy rays such as UV rays, which attack the skin. These are neutralized via outer skin layers and the natural barrier, as well as enzymes [11]. If these protective mechanisms are damaged, radicals and radiation can damage the skin, but also penetrate deeper into the tissue and even cause cancer there [12].

Fig. 2

Are there alternatives ?

Yes, there are alternatives, even ones that you do not have to look for in nature. One of the most promising at the moment is the 2,4-Polysarcosine. It is 100% biodegradable, non-toxic, non-irritating, reddening or affecting the immune system. They are synthetic, therefore they can be tailor-made, and at present they have many possible variations [13]. A natural alternative is the propanediol, which can be made from corn syrup. It has similar water-soluble properties, can also be used as a surfactant for emulsions, and is not toxic. In addition, it promotes the absorption of active ingredients without damaging the skin barrier and has an antimicrobial effect, making preservatives superfluous [14].

Sources to read:

Scientific article on 2,4-polysarcosine as an alternative to PEG [13]

Greenpeace Statement on PEG [8]

Scientific article about 1,2 Propendiol [14]

Article about Polyethylene Glycol [10][11][12]

Wikipedia[1][2][3][4][5][6][7][9]

Alcohol in cosmetics - What is alcohol and why is it used?

  What is alcohol?

Chemically, the term "alcohol" refers to a superordinate class; it describes the possession of a so-called hydroxide (-OH) group on a residual molecule. The term "alkanols" refers to an organic radical on this -OH group. Basically, there are two distinguishing criteria, the number of organic radicals and the number of hydroxy groups [1]

Structural formula of methanol Fig. 1

Here is the difference in organic residues, with:

Strukturformel des Ethanols Abb. 2

  • Primary alcohols

  • Secondary alcohols

  • Tertiary alcohols

And the number of -OH groups and their valence, with:

  • Monovalent (ending -ol)

  • Divalent (ending -diol)

    Structural formula of glycerine Fig. 3

  • Trivalent (ending -triol)

Examples of these would be e.g. Methanol for a monohydric, primary alcohol. Isopropanol for a monohydric secondary alcohol. Tert-butanol for a monohydric, tertiary alcohol. Ethanol for a monohydric alcohol. Ethanediol for a dihydric alcohol. And glycerin (glycerol) for a trivalent alcohol[2]

Also, there are so-called fatty alcohols which have long carbon chains from 8-22C upwards, e.g. the cetyl alcohol with a chain length of 16 carbon atoms.[3]

Structural formula of tert-butanol Fig. 4

How do alcohols come from?

The production and formation of alcohols varies from alcohol to alcohol. Ethanol is obtained by fermentation of sugar with the aid of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae fungus (yeast fungus) under exclusion of air [4]. Methanol has been converted into wood by the dry distillation of wood, but nowadays more economically by the reforming of natural gas, with carbon dioxide and hydrogen reacting together to form methanol [5]. Isopropanol is obtained by addition of water to propene [6]. Tert-butanol is produced by water addition to isobutene [7]. Ethanediol is prepared by the addition of water to ethylene oxide [8]. And glycerol is obtained as a by-product of biofuel production, but can also be produced by influencing the Saccharomyces cerevisiae fungus instead of ethanol [9]. Most fatty alcohols are made by saponification of waxes. [10]

What do we use alcohols for?

In general, alcohols are used as solvents, including methanol, ethanol, cyclohexanol and glycerol. Depending on their properties, they have many other uses. Ethanol e.g. Highly known as a stimulant, the word "alcohol" usually refers to ethanol, and is present in all alcoholic beverages, from draft beer to high-proof absinthe [11]. Isopropanol is used as a disinfecting, cleaning, defoaming and antifreeze agent [12]. Glycerin is used as antifreeze and lubricant, as well as a moisturizer in cosmetics [13]. Fatty alcohols are used as surfactants. [14]

Particular alcohols in the cosmetics industry are ethanol, glycerol and fatty alcohols. Ethanol is a natural and excellent solvent for oils and fats, it also has a disinfecting effect [15]. Glycerine is a natural carrier and moisturizes [16]. And fatty alcohols are used as surfactants in shampoos and similar cosmetics [17].

What are "good" and what are "bad" alcohols?

Whether good or bad depends heavily on the quantities and the concentration, because: "The quantity makes a thing a poison". As with alcohol, small amounts are not a problem, even healthy. In contrast, larger amounts are harmful [18]. Only the harmful minimum dose counts. For glycerol or propanediol, this is very high, i. That it takes large amounts to become harmful [19]. For example, in ethanol is this moderate, so that a quantity in the range of a few tenths to almost a few hundred milliliters can be harmful [20]. However, under certain thresholds, the positive effects can be exploited without creating negative ones. Thus, ethanol is e.g. taken in very small amounts dermal, amounts that make no difference, and certainly not in the quantities in which ethanol is contained in cosmetics [21]. Methanol has a very low harmful minimum dose, so even 0.1g per kg of body weight are dangerous, and 1g per kg of body weight life threatening [22].

Ethanol is taxed in Germany, in order to escape this enormous cost increase, many producers pay the liquor. The Vergällen happens via the addition of phthalates, which arise from petroleum, and in addition to the damage to the skin can make even impotent. Denatured alcohol can be recognized by the terms "Alcohol denat." And "SD Alcohol".[23]

However, there are also some manufacturers, especially natural cosmetics, who do not use denatured alcohol, this is referred to as so-called "alcoholic spirit". This alcohol is pure, 96% vol, ethanol[24].

Are there any non-alcoholic cosmetics?

Yes and no. If a cosmetic article is "non-alcoholic," it means only that it does not contain bad, dehydrating, or otherwise harmful alcohols. It does not mean, however, that no alcohol is included[25].

Which alcohol-based cosmetics are harmless, and what must be respected?

Generally, be careful what you buy. When buying, pay special attention to the ingredients and their INCI name. Products with "Alcohol denat." And "SD Alcohol" should be avoided. Glycerol and propanediol are safe and give a good, healthy, skin feel. Ethanol with the designation "ethanol" or "ethyl alcohol" is largely harmless, but its concentrations vary from producer to producer, but is dispensed sparingly by high costs. And fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol are generally harmless.[26]

Sources to read:

Statement zu Phtalaten des Bayrischem Bundesamts für Gesundheit und Lms [23]

Informationen zu Methanolvergiftungen[22]

Informationen zum Nutzen und den Gefahren von Isopropanol [12]

Pharmaartikel zu Weingeist [24]

Genaueres zur alkoholischen Gärung [4]

Genauere Beschreibung der Methanolherstellung [5]

Alkoholgehälter von verschiedenen Getränken [11]

Wikipedia[1][2][3][6][7][8][9][10][11][13][14][15][16][17][21][18][19][20][25][26]

Bildquellen: Wikipedia Commons, Flickr. Alle Bildrechte gehen an die Besitzer der Bilder Abb.5 – Felix Triller |cover photo

Parabens in cosmetics - how dangerous are they really?

What are parabens in general?

Parabens are derivatives of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, thus their salts and esters. They are used in cosmetics, medicines, tobacco and food. They serve as preservatives and protect against bacteria and fungi.

Basic structure of parabens R = Any alkyl radical Fig. 1

How are parabens structured?

As mentioned above, parabens are the salts and esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid [1], which for a long time has also been called catalpinic acid, since it is found in the plant parts of catalpa spp. (Trumpet tree) occurs. [2]

The parabens differ in the residue on the carboxyl group (-COO), these may be metal ions, e.g. Be sodium, or organic radicals such as methyl or ethyl esters. Today, methyl and ethyl parabens are mainly used. Less so propyl and butyl esters, and isoethyl, isopropyl, and isobutyl esters have been rarely used for some time.[3]

Why are parabens used at all?

Parabens are cheap preservatives and their antimicrobial and fungicidal effects are highly praised, with a wide range of applications. [4] They are easy to manufacture and even small amounts are sufficient to allow a regulated performance. They have little competition, as most alternatives are not so close to the skin, or with a proven, more toxic effect than the used parabens.

What is the problem with parabens?

There have been some theories for years that parabens are highly harmful to health, and little has been proven so far. Many statements are so far only speculation and suspicion, whose investigations are often too contradictory for a clear statement. In fact, parabens are similar to the female sex hormone estrogen, which is responsible, among other things, for breast growth. This similarity can cause the tissue to grow unchecked and can lead to breast cancer [6]. In male fetuses and children up to three years, parabens can lead to feminization [7]. However, many of these theses are an eternal back and forth from true to false. There are no conclusive findings on the question "are parabens harmful." [8]

Are there safe alternatives to parabens?

Yes, nature also preserves some substances that protect the skin, protect it from microbes and fungi, and also bring along vitamins and other substances that have a positive effect on your health. Phytoalexins they are called, plant antibodies.

Flavonoids, alkaloids and terpenoids help conserve cosmetics and have their own otherwise helpful properties. Flavonoids additionally protect against UV rays and other short-wave light, and thus against photo-oxidative destruction [9]. Alkaloids provide better blood circulation to the skin [10]. Terpenoids which have typical, pleasant odors and are regarded as a possible tumor therapy or cancer remedy [11].

Sources to read:

SCCS report on feminization of children by parabens[7]

Articles on Parabens in Cosmetics [3][4][5][6][8]

Report of the ingredients of Catalpa spp. [2]

Article on flavonoids and their properties[9]

Scientific report on alkaloids [10]

Pharmaceuticals report on terpenes and terpenoids [11]

Wikipedia [1][9][10][11]

Image sources: Wikipedia Commons, Flickr. The image rights go to the owners of the images. cover photo

Metals in deodorant - How dangerous are aluminum salts?

What are aluminum salts in general?

Aluminum is a metal that we find everywhere today. In the form of foil, as cans for soft drinks and food or as a material in industry and private use. For years it has also been found in the form of metal salts in deodorants and antiperspirants. Antitranspirantien.

What are aluminum salts?

Fig. 1

Metals can undergo ionic bonding by donating one or more electrons to a suitable nonmetal partner. Electromagnetic forces now hold these partners together.[1] The most commonly used aluminum salt in deodorants is aluminum hydroxychloride (ACH).[2]

It consists of a mixture of different aluminum salts with the recurring constituents, Al (aluminum), Cl (chlorine) and OH (hydroxide).[3]

Why are aluminum salts used in deodorants?

ACH prevents excessive perspiration, reliable and long-lasting. It is relatively cheap, easy to dose and therefore has an excellent price-performance ratio. It can be used without limit, and is therefore, with many cosmetics manufacturers, very popular. In addition, there are few alternatives that fulfill this job as well as they do.[4]

What are the problems with aluminum salts?

ACH acts in two main ways:

1) It extracts moisture from the skin, thus narrowing the sweat channels of the skin

2) It partially denatures the skin's proteins, creating a film over the skin that penetrates and blocks the pores and sweat ducts.

So Aluminum salts are proven to dry out the skin and destroy proteins to counter sweat. [5]

Also, ACH is a neurotoxin, which at higher concentrations affects the blood-brain barrier, a natural barrier to central nervous system (CNS) fluid trajectories. It can damage the DNA and affect the activities of genes. [6]

In addition, they are in strong suspicion to trigger breast cancer and Alzheimer's, but this is still controversial and it is disputed whether elevated aluminum concentrations in breast cancer tissue as a trigger or even as a by-product.

The fact is, however, that larger amounts of aluminum do not stay in the body and are separated from the kidneys, and then excreted. In humans with renal diseases such as kidney hypofunction, aluminum can accumulate in the body.[9]

Are there natural and harmless alternatives?

Yes and at the same time no. There are some competitors who are harmless and gentle, but do not work comparably well with ACH. However, compromises must be made, and one's own health preceded by a slightly better performance. [9] [9]

As alternatives, there are deodorants, which reduce the acidic environment by basic minerals, and thus the growth of bacteria, and thus malodour. They also partially protect against sweat leakage. But also natural oils and extracts such as grape, coriander, pomegranate or sage help to suppress odors. With fats and waxes, such as berries and beeswax, cocoa, and shea butter, excessive sweating can be avoided, at least for the most part. [10] [10]

Sources to read:

Stiftung Warentest for testing deodorants with and without aluminum salts[4]

BfR statement on increased uptake of aluminum via deodorants[9]

Study on increasing Alzheimer's risk by aluminum uptake[7]

Description of risk factors of aluminum salt containing cosmetics[5][6][7]

Wikipedia[1][2][3][8][10]

Plastic in cosmetics - why silicone-free?

What are silicones anyway?

Silicones are so-called polymers, long chains of repeating segments. They are semi-synthetic and made from petroleum. They are available as liquids or pastes, as soft plastics or resins. However, in this article we only treat the liquid and pasty. They are non-toxic, chemically resistant and odorless. They are used in cosmetics, the food industry, in shampoos and other cleaning products, massage oils, as a basis for creams and ointments, and as a lubricant and foam reducer. [1]

How are silicones constructed and how are they made?

Silicones, as mentioned above, are polymers with recurring segments. Only these segments are recorded, and bounded by square brackets. These brackets are then noted the number of repetitions. Also, the tails are shown. [2]

The chemical structure of poly-dimethyl-siloxane Fig. 1

Silicones are characterized by their silicon-oxygen compounds. Of these, they can have up to four pieces (four oxygen on a silicon would correspond to quartz). These sometimes make their properties apart from the chain length. [3]

They are prepared by allowing pure silicon powder to react with methyl chloride on a suitable catalyst, at 300 ° C. Different products are separated and polymerized with each other depending on the application.[4]

Why are silicones used in cosmetics?

In cosmetics, silicones are found in the form of silicone oils. These silicone oils are touted for fake effects. They are supposed to make the skin more even, make the hair smoother and more shiny and sedate, and give creams and ointments a thicker consistency. They are often used by their effects at the first application, these being only placebo effects. [5]

Why are silicones bad for the skin and hair?

Silicones have no effect on the skin and hair, any visible "effect" is just a mirage. In fact, the water-repellent silicones only penetrate the skin and hair, penetrate and smooth out bumps, but they do more harm than good. They cover themselves as a film over skin and hair and do not let moisture in or out, the same goes for sebum and dirt. They prevent the skin and hair from getting rid of excess sebum and thus provide clogged pores. The skin dries and the hair becomes brittle. If you use silicone-containing cosmetics again, the damage they have done is only covered up, thus ensuring false security.[6] Also, some silicones are difficult to cope with the environment. Elastomers and thermoplastics (baking molds, for example) are not naturally biodegradable. Liquid silicones, such as in cosmetics, can be catalytically decomposed by minerals in sedimentary layers and subsequently converted by microorganisms into SiO22 (sand). However, this process takes decades.[7]

Why silicone-free?

Silikone bieten Scheinwirkungen und schädigen Haut und Haar, qualitative Kosmetik möchte wirkliche Leistungen und Verbesserungen bieten, und dabei so gesund und verträglich bleiben wie möglich. Hierbei bietet die Natur viele Alternativen, welche heilende und lindernde Wirkungen haben, und dabei schonend und sehr verträglich sind. Natürliche Alternativen enthalten aktive Wirkstoffe wie Vitamine und Phytosterole welche der Haut und dem Haar bewiesener Maßen helfen. So ein Öl ist z.B. das Brokkolisamenöl, welches Haut und Haare pflegt und zudem sehr leicht auf Haut und Haaren ist.[8]

Reference to source for reading

Information on silicone in cosmetics[5][6]

Broccoli seed oil as a silicone substitute[8]

Wikipedia [1][2][3][4][7]

Image sources: Wikipedia Commons. All image rights go to the owners of the images | Fig. 2 | cover photo