Kollagen in Kosmetika – Anti-Aging Wunder?
What is collagen?
Kollagen ist ein Protein welches nur in vielzelligen Lebewesen vorkommt. Es ist ein Strukturprotein, welches als Gerüst für unelastische Fasern, wie Sehnen, Bänder, Knochen, Knorpel und Schichten der Unterhaut, welche zum größtem Teil aus einer Mischung von Kollagen, Elastin und Hyaluronsäure bestehen. Es macht rund 30% aller Proteine im menschlichem Körper aus[1].
How is collagen formed?
Collagen is a so-called triple helix protein, i. That three separate strands of pro-collagens (collagen precursors) come together to form a structure. It is stored in the reticulum, a branched system of channels and cavities for calcium and carbohydrate storage, by enzymes, with the help of ribosomes (complex macromolecules of RNA). Here, first amino acids such as lysine, glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, and some more bound to chains, with the help of coenzymes and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). The resulting single strands of pro-collagene are bound by enzymes with hydrogen and disulfide bridges in their triple helical structure [2].
Was sind die Eigenschaften des Kollagens?
Collagen makes up the majority of the lower skin layer with elastin and hyaluronic acid, and gives structure and strength to bones, cartilage, tendons and ligaments. In the single strands, every third amino acid is glycine, and the three strands are held together by lysine and proline side chains. It has a mass of between 115 and 235 kilodaltons (115-235 kg / kmol), making it a rather large macromolecule. A lack of collagen or elastin causes wrinkles. It also plays a crucial role in biomineralization, involving the process of minerals and trace elements in biomolecules (e.g., calcium and phosphorus in bone and teeth)[3].
Wie gewinnt man Kollagen?
Collagen is found in the lower skin layers of farm animals such as pigs and cows, resulting in collagen from cowhides (leather) and pork rinds. Here to 70% from pigskin. There are no non-animal ways to obtain collagen, since neither fungi nor plants nor unicellular organisms are able to produce it [4].
Was sind die Nutzen des Kollagens?
Collagen is a protein and can thereby be denatured, this denatured form is called gelatin. This gelatin is e.g. in food technology as a gelling agent and in pharmacy with as a container in the form of hard and soft capsules. Collagen is used in cosmetics and pharmacy as an anti-aging product, thereby filling the gaps in the tissue causing wrinkles. There are cosmetic products such as creams containing collagen, and concentrates of collagen in the pharmaceutical industry[5].
Ist Kollagen ein solchen Wundermittel wie es angepriesen wird?
There is no doubt that collagen helps to fill the lower layers of the skin and fight against wrinkles, even proven medically. However, this applies only to ingestible concentrates, which are taken orally or intravenously [6], dermal application is the problem of large macromolecules again. Such large molecules can not be absorbed by the skin, thereby reducing or even nullifying their actual effect [7].
Sources:
Wikipedia[5][6][7]
Scientific Article on Collagen[1][2][3]
