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What is collagen?

Collagen is a protein that only occurs in multicellular organisms. It is a structural protein that acts as a scaffold for inelastic fibers such as tendons, ligaments, bones, cartilage, and subcutaneous tissue layers, which are largely composed of a mixture of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. It accounts for around 30% of all proteins in the human body^[1].

How is collagen formed?

Collagen is a so-called triple helix protein, i. That three separate strands of pro-collagens (collagen precursors) come together to form a structure. It is stored in the reticulum, a branched system of channels and cavities for calcium and carbohydrate storage, by enzymes, with the help of ribosomes (complex macromolecules of RNA). Here, first amino acids such as lysine, glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, and some more bound to chains, with the help of coenzymes and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). The resulting single strands of pro-collagene are bound by enzymes with hydrogen and disulfide bridges in their triple helical structure [2].

What are the properties of collagen?

Collagen makes up the majority of the lower skin layer with elastin and hyaluronic acid, and gives structure and strength to bones, cartilage, tendons and ligaments. In the single strands, every third amino acid is glycine, and the three strands are held together by lysine and proline side chains. It has a mass of between 115 and 235 kilodaltons (115-235 kg / kmol), making it a rather large macromolecule. A lack of collagen or elastin causes wrinkles. It also plays a crucial role in biomineralization, involving the process of minerals and trace elements in biomolecules (e.g., calcium and phosphorus in bone and teeth)^[3].

How do you get collagen?

Collagen is found in the lower skin layers of farm animals such as pigs and cows, resulting in collagen from cowhides (leather) and pork rinds. Here to 70% from pigskin. There are no non-animal ways to obtain collagen, since neither fungi nor plants nor unicellular organisms are able to produce it [4].

What are the benefits of collagen?

Collagen is a protein and can thereby be denatured, this denatured form is called gelatin. This gelatin is e.g. in food technology as a gelling agent and in pharmacy with as a container in the form of hard and soft capsules. Collagen is used in cosmetics and pharmacy as an anti-aging product, thereby filling the gaps in the tissue causing wrinkles. There are cosmetic products such as creams containing collagen, and concentrates of collagen in the pharmaceutical industry^[5].

Is collagen such a miracle cure as it is touted?

There is no doubt that collagen helps to fill the lower layers of the skin and fight against wrinkles, even proven medically. However, this applies only to ingestible concentrates, which are taken orally or intravenously [6], dermal application is the problem of large macromolecules again. Such large molecules can not be absorbed by the skin, thereby reducing or even nullifying their actual effect [7].

Sources:

Wikipedia^[5][6][7]

Scientific Article on Collagen^[1][2][3]

Articles for the production and use of gelatine ^[4][5]

What are vegetable oils and fats?

Vegetable oils and fats consist of fatty acid esters, so-called triglycerides, as well as secondary substances such as riboflavin (vitamin B2), folic acid (vitamin B9), tocopherol (vitamin E), squalane, terpenes, minerals such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron and zinc [1] , as well as essential amino acids such as tyrosine, phenylalanine, leucine and lysine. Whether and how much of these substances are present varies from plant to plant.

What are triglycerides?

riglycerides are so-called esters of fatty acids and glycerin. They are formed by dehydration of molecules and are characterized by the fact that they bind two molecules via an oxygen. These bonds can be cleaved by acidic addition of water or by saponification to produce either the fatty acids or their fatty acid salts [2]. Triglycerides with multiple (polyunsaturated) fatty acids are more fluid, while triglycerides with low to no unsaturated fatty acids are more likely to be solid.

What are fatty acids?

Fettsäuren sind lange Kohlenwasserstoffketten, welche mindestens eine Carbonsäuregruppe besitzen. Sie sind alle schwache Säuren und keinerlei vergleichbar mit der Säurewirkung von z.B. Salzsäure. Es gibt sehr viele, mal mehr, mal wenig unterschiedlich. Generell kann man unter „gesättigten“ und „ungesättigten“ Fettsäuren unterscheiden, hierbei stehen die Bezeichnungen für Doppelbindungen im Molekül. Fettsäuren ohne Doppelbindungen bezeichnet man als „gesättigt“, Fettsäuren mit Doppelbindungen als „ungesättigt“.

Fatty acids which are polyunsaturated are rather fluid, saturated fatty acids are rather solid [3]. The most common or most found in cosmetics fatty acids are stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, erucic acid, linoleic acid, arachidic acid and caproic acid [4]. Also, there are fatty acids that the body can not produce itself, yet needs such. the omega-3 fatty acid. It is one of the essential fatty acids of the body that he does not make himself, but on the food intake. They are called omega-3 fatty acids because the last double bond of the polyunsaturated fatty acid, from the carboxylic acid, is 3 carbon behind the last carbon single bond (CC) (This is called omega, since the single bond, as the omega sign in the Greek alphabet last). One such herbal omega-3 fatty acid is alpha-linolenic acid. Omega-3 fatty acids are metabolized for energy, and are used to produce so-called Series 3 prostaglandins, which are responsible for anti-inflammatory. Their metabolites are also needed to regulate blood pressure, control blood clotting and the immune system, and maintain a balanced heart rate [19].

What are the secondary substances in oils and fats?

Secondary substances in vegetable oils and fats include vitamins and minerals, e.g.

-Tocopherol, the vitamin E, which has the task in the body to protect against oxidative stress^[5],

-Riboflavin, vitamin B2, which is used in metabolism as a starting material for the production of antioxidant coenzymes^[6],

-Squalan, a terpene that softens and smoothes the skin^[7].

Minerals are e.g. 

- Potassium, which is important for the skin, kidneys, nerves and brain^[8],

- Calcium, which is important for blood, teeth and bones^[9],

- Magnesium, which is important for the arteries, heart and muscle^[10],

- Phosphorus, which is important for teeth, bones and the brain^[11],

- Iron, which is important for the blood, nails and skin^[12],

- Zinc, which is a component of many enzymes, and is essential for the metabolism of sugar fat and protein^[13]

What are the properties of vegetable oils and fats?

The triglycerides are split on the skin, releasing the fatty acids and glycerin. Many fatty acids have anti-inflammatory and protective effects against oxidative stress. In combination, they can firm the skin, strengthen the tissue, strengthen the barrier functions of the skin, protect against water loss, as well as pigmentation spots, counteract both overpigmentation and underpigmentation, and loosen cornification of the skin. They can make the hair softer and smoother and contribute to a naturally beautiful shine, and make the hair healthier overall^[14].

Which oils and fats are used in cosmetics?

Häufig eingesetzte Öle sind z.B. Jojobaöl, Sesamöl, Arganöl, Avocadoöl, Mandelöl, Rizinusöl and Aprikosenkernöl, weniger exotische, dennoch oft genutzte Öle sind z.B. Olivenöl und Rapsöl^[15] jedoch sind diese nur ein paar von sehr vielen verschiedenen Ölen die benutzt werden. Neben Ölen finden auch Fette und Buttern Beliebtheit, so z.B. Kakao-, und Sheabutter, oder Kokosöl bzw. Kokosfett^[16]. Sie haben alle unterschiedliche Eigenschaften, und in den richtigen Mischungsverhältnissen ergeben sie Kosmetika mit außerordentlicher Wirkung. 

How are vegetable oils and fats extracted or produced?

Vegetable oils can be obtained in several ways, e.g. by pressing biomass either hot or cold, or by extraction with solvents. This extraction and the subsequent treatment processes determine the name and ingredients of the vegetable oils. Thus, an oil which is cold-pressed (below 60 ° C), and has not been refined "unrefined", "cold-pressed" and "native", where natively stands for a natural oil, which still has virtually all active ingredients. A refined oil, on the other hand, has virtually no secondary material left. Refined oils are largely odorless and tasteless, but very long-lasting and universally applicable. Unrefined oils, on the other hand, are less durable, but retain their typical odor and flavor, as well as most of the secondary metabolites. However, they are dampened to extend shelf life, thereby losing some of the secondary materials. Native oils are cold-pressed oils that do not go through any further steps to improve durability in the recovery process. They still have all the secondary substances, but are less durable^[17].

Are cosmetics with vegetable oils and fats, better than those without?

Die Frage nach dem „Was ist denn jetzt besser?“ ist zu generell gefragt, schlussendlich kommt es auf jeden selbst an ob oder ob nicht. Fakt ist, dass Kosmetika mit Pflanzenölen, anstelle von Mineralölen, verträglicher und um einiges umweltschonender sind. Aus bestimmten Mischungen von Pflanzenölen kann man selbst auf hoch empfindliche Haut optimal eingehen, eine Flexibilität, welche Mineralölkosmetik nicht besitzt^[18]. Möchte man sich selbst, und seiner Umwelt, etwas gutes tun, sind Pflanzenöle eine sehr gute Alternative zu Mineralölen.

Sources:

Wikipedia[1][7][17]

List of the most important trace elements and their uses^{[8][9][10][11][12][13]}

Article on the effects of jojoba oil^[15]

Article on the effects of almond oil^[15]

Article on the effects of coconut oil ^[16]

Contribution to the effects of vegetable oils on the skin and hair^[14][18]

List of the most important vitamins and their benefits^[5][6]

Contribution to the chemistry of triglycerides^[2]

Scientific article on fatty acids^[3][4]

Scientific article on omega-3 fatty acids^[19]

What are fragrances?

Fragrances are those chemicals that have certain odors, and smell different in different compositions. They are all allergens and irritate the skin. As "perfume", "fragrance", "aroma" and "flavor" these substances are usually called, and we know up to 3000 individual substances, which fall under the category fragrances. They are used in perfumes, scented trees, scented candles and cosmetics. When they spring from nature they are called essential oils.

What are fragrances chemically accurate?

Fragrances, or fragrances, are molecules that stimulate different receptors in our nose and therefore smell very differently. They all have molar masses below 300 g / mol, and always consist of a polar, e.g. a hydroxy group, and a non-polar part, e.g. a hydrocarbon chain. Because they are nasally inhaled by us, they are easily volatile, i. E. They evaporate under normal circumstances in part [1]. When we inhale these substances, so-called transmembrane proteins provide, which are responsible for signal transmission under. The smell of a substance depends on which of these proteins stimulates it in combination with each other [2].

Why are they used in cosmetics? 

Fragrances are included in many cosmetics to cover unpleasant odors, or to give a thready product a certain something. In natural cosmetics, they are occasionally included as incidental content or supplement of natural fats and oils. ^[3]

What are their good, what are their bad qualities?

As the name suggests, fragrances have a certain scent, or a certain odor. For example, Benzaldehyde bitter almond, vanillin vanilla, lemon citrus and menthol mint / menthol. They usually have a good perceptible odor even at minimal concentrations [4]. Some of them occur naturally, as so-called essential oils, and some of them are synthetically produced [5]. They are all irritating and irritating, and can cause allergies with more pronounced symptoms of irritation, redness, irritation and itching. How strong these symptoms are or whether they occur at all depends on the concentration in the product, and the dispositions of the user. Some people are highly resistant to perfumes and have no symptoms. Some have minimal allergic reactions such as redness or itching. And others are very sensitive about fragrances, they react with severe irritation and irritation, as well as with red, sore spots [6]. Also, they can photosensitize the skin, i. The skin becomes more susceptible to light, which can cause pigmentation disorders [7].

How can you recognize fragrances in cosmetics?

Fragrances have as subcategory the allergens. These are 26 substances that have been subjected to extensive testing and have been confirmed to cause allergies, irritation and irritation. They must be noted from a content of 0.001% for leave-on products, and at 0.01% for rinse-off products. Below these limits no noticeable reaction can be assumed^[8].

Are there alternatives ?

No, fragrances have no alternatives, whether in the normal or in natural cosmetics. No known substance replaces the function of these substances without causing many worse side effects. However, it should be said that many people tolerate fragrance as well as problem-free, and have never had any problems with it [9]. For people with allergies, it is important to look at the contents and selectively use products without the problematic allergens, or to leave products with fragrances altogether. It should be said that "perfume free" is not always perfume free. Thus, some fragrances that fulfill a further purpose besides the odor do not qualify as a perfume [10].^[9]. Für Menschen mit Allergien heißt es auf die Inhalte schauen und selektiv Produkte ohne die problematischen Allergene nutzen, oder Produkte mit Duftstoffen gleich ganz weg lassen. Hierzu sei gesagt, dass „parfümfrei“ nicht immer Parfüm frei ist. So sind manche Duftstoffe, welche einen weiteren Zweck neben der Geruchsgebung erfüllen nicht als Parfüm einzustufen^[10].

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Sources to read:

BfR Statement on Fragrances in Cosmetics ^[8]

Stiftung Warentest Report on fragrance in cosmetics ^[9][10]

Focus Article on perfumes in cosmetics ^[6][9]

Scientific article on membrane proteins ^[2]

Wikipedia ^{[1][3][4][5][7]}

 

  What is alcohol?

Chemically, the term "alcohol" refers to a superordinate class; it describes the possession of a so-called hydroxide (-OH) group on a residual molecule. The term "alkanols" refers to an organic radical on this -OH group. Basically, there are two distinguishing criteria, the number of organic radicals and the number of hydroxy groups ^[1]

Here is the difference in organic residues, with:

• Primary alcohols

• Secondary alcohols

• Tertiary alcohols

And the number of -OH groups and their valence, with:

• Monovalent (ending -ol)

• Divalent (ending -diol)

  

  Structural formula of glycerine Fig. 3

• Trivalent (ending -triol)

Examples of these would be e.g. Methanol for a monohydric, primary alcohol. Isopropanol for a monohydric secondary alcohol. Tert-butanol for a monohydric, tertiary alcohol. Ethanol for a monohydric alcohol. Ethanediol for a dihydric alcohol. And glycerin (glycerol) for a trivalent alcohol^[2]

Also, there are so-called fatty alcohols which have long carbon chains from 8-22C upwards, e.g. the cetyl alcohol with a chain length of 16 carbon atoms.^[3]

How do alcohols come from?

The production and formation of alcohols varies from alcohol to alcohol. Ethanol is obtained by fermentation of sugar with the aid of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae fungus (yeast fungus) under exclusion of air [4]. Methanol has been converted into wood by the dry distillation of wood, but nowadays more economically by the reforming of natural gas, with carbon dioxide and hydrogen reacting together to form methanol [5]. Isopropanol is obtained by addition of water to propene [6]. Tert-butanol is produced by water addition to isobutene [7]. Ethanediol is prepared by the addition of water to ethylene oxide [8]. And glycerol is obtained as a by-product of biofuel production, but can also be produced by influencing the Saccharomyces cerevisiae fungus instead of ethanol [9]. Most fatty alcohols are made by saponification of waxes. [10]

What do we use alcohols for?

In general, alcohols are used as solvents, including methanol, ethanol, cyclohexanol and glycerol. Depending on their properties, they have many other uses. Ethanol e.g. Highly known as a stimulant, the word "alcohol" usually refers to ethanol, and is present in all alcoholic beverages, from draft beer to high-proof absinthe [11]. Isopropanol is used as a disinfecting, cleaning, defoaming and antifreeze agent [12]. Glycerin is used as antifreeze and lubricant, as well as a moisturizer in cosmetics [13]. Fatty alcohols are used as surfactants. [14]

Particular alcohols in the cosmetics industry are ethanol, glycerol and fatty alcohols. Ethanol is a natural and excellent solvent for oils and fats, it also has a disinfecting effect [15]. Glycerine is a natural carrier and moisturizes [16]. And fatty alcohols are used as surfactants in shampoos and similar cosmetics [17].

What are "good" and what are "bad" alcohols?

Whether good or bad depends heavily on the quantities and the concentration, because: "The quantity makes a thing a poison". As with alcohol, small amounts are not a problem, even healthy. In contrast, larger amounts are harmful [18]. Only the harmful minimum dose counts. For glycerol or propanediol, this is very high, i. That it takes large amounts to become harmful [19]. For example, in ethanol is this moderate, so that a quantity in the range of a few tenths to almost a few hundred milliliters can be harmful [20]. However, under certain thresholds, the positive effects can be exploited without creating negative ones. Thus, ethanol is e.g. taken in very small amounts dermal, amounts that make no difference, and certainly not in the quantities in which ethanol is contained in cosmetics [21]. Methanol has a very low harmful minimum dose, so even 0.1g per kg of body weight are dangerous, and 1g per kg of body weight life threatening [22].

Ethanol is taxed in Germany, in order to escape this enormous cost increase, many producers pay the liquor. The Vergällen happens via the addition of phthalates, which arise from petroleum, and in addition to the damage to the skin can make even impotent. Denatured alcohol can be recognized by the terms "Alcohol denat." And "SD Alcohol".^[23]

However, there are also some manufacturers, especially natural cosmetics, who do not use denatured alcohol, this is referred to as so-called "alcoholic spirit". This alcohol is pure, 96% vol, ethanol^[24].

Are there any non-alcoholic cosmetics?

Yes and no. If a cosmetic article is "non-alcoholic," it means only that it does not contain bad, dehydrating, or otherwise harmful alcohols. It does not mean, however, that no alcohol is included^[25].

Which alcohol-based cosmetics are harmless, and what must be respected?

Generally, be careful what you buy. When buying, pay special attention to the ingredients and their INCI name. Products with "Alcohol denat." And "SD Alcohol" should be avoided. Glycerol and propanediol are safe and give a good, healthy, skin feel. Ethanol with the designation "ethanol" or "ethyl alcohol" is largely harmless, but its concentrations vary from producer to producer, but is dispensed sparingly by high costs. And fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol are generally harmless.^[26]

Sources to read:

Statement zu Phtalaten des Bayrischem Bundesamts für Gesundheit und Lms ^[23]

Informationen zu Methanolvergiftungen^[22]

Informationen zum Nutzen und den Gefahren von Isopropanol ^[12]

Pharmaartikel zu Weingeist ^[24]

Genaueres zur alkoholischen Gärung ^[4]

Genauere Beschreibung der Methanolherstellung ^[5]

Alkoholgehälter von verschiedenen Getränken ^[11]

Wikipedia^{[1][2][3][6][7][8][9][10][11][13][14][15][16][17][21][18][19][20][25][26]}

Bildquellen: Wikipedia Commons, Flickr. Alle Bildrechte gehen an die Besitzer der Bilder Abb.5 – Felix Triller |cover photo

What are aluminum salts in general?

Aluminum is a metal that we find everywhere today. In the form of foil, as cans for soft drinks and food or as a material in industry and private use. For years it has also been found in the form of metal salts in deodorants and antiperspirants. Antitranspirantien.

What are aluminum salts?

Metals can undergo ionic bonding by donating one or more electrons to a suitable nonmetal partner. Electromagnetic forces now hold these partners together.^[1] The most commonly used aluminum salt in deodorants is aluminum hydroxychloride (ACH).^[2]

It consists of a mixture of different aluminum salts with the recurring constituents, Al (aluminum), Cl (chlorine) and OH (hydroxide).^[3]

Why are aluminum salts used in deodorants?

ACH prevents excessive perspiration, reliable and long-lasting. It is relatively cheap, easy to dose and therefore has an excellent price-performance ratio. It can be used without limit, and is therefore, with many cosmetics manufacturers, very popular. In addition, there are few alternatives that fulfill this job as well as they do.^[4]

What are the problems with aluminum salts?

ACH acts in two main ways:

1) It extracts moisture from the skin, thus narrowing the sweat channels of the skin

2) It partially denatures the skin's proteins, creating a film over the skin that penetrates and blocks the pores and sweat ducts.

So Aluminum salts are proven to dry out the skin and destroy proteins to counter sweat. ^[5]

Also, ACH is a neurotoxin, which at higher concentrations affects the blood-brain barrier, a natural barrier to central nervous system (CNS) fluid trajectories. It can damage the DNA and affect the activities of genes. ^[6]

In addition, they are in strong suspicion to trigger breast cancer and Alzheimer's, but this is still controversial and it is disputed whether elevated aluminum concentrations in breast cancer tissue as a trigger or even as a by-product.

The fact is, however, that larger amounts of aluminum do not stay in the body and are separated from the kidneys, and then excreted. In humans with renal diseases such as kidney hypofunction, aluminum can accumulate in the body.^[9]

Are there natural and harmless alternatives?

Yes and at the same time no. There are some competitors who are harmless and gentle, but do not work comparably well with ACH. However, compromises must be made, and one's own health preceded by a slightly better performance. [9] ^[9]

As alternatives, there are deodorants, which reduce the acidic environment by basic minerals, and thus the growth of bacteria, and thus malodour. They also partially protect against sweat leakage. But also natural oils and extracts such as grape, coriander, pomegranate or sage help to suppress odors. With fats and waxes, such as berries and beeswax, cocoa, and shea butter, excessive sweating can be avoided, at least for the most part. [10] ^[10]

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Sources to read:

Stiftung Warentest for testing deodorants with and without aluminum salts^[4]

BfR statement on increased uptake of aluminum via deodorants^[9]

Study on increasing Alzheimer's risk by aluminum uptake^[7]

Description of risk factors of aluminum salt containing cosmetics^[5][6][7]

Wikipedia^{[1][2][3][8][10]}